Self-adhesive. Cold application. For habitable buildings, garages and extensions. Lasts up to 20 years when used with Wickes Easy Seal Roofing Felt Underlay. Green mineral finish. Designed for use as part of a two-layer system. BBA Certified No05/4228.
Average Customer Rating:
(25 Reviews) 24
Rating Snapshot(25 reviews)
24 of 25(96%)reviewers would recommend this product to a friend.
Customer Reviews for Easy Seal Cap Sheet Felt 6x1m
Review 21 for Easy Seal Cap Sheet Felt 6x1m
Choose your day!,
Expertise: Expert DIYer
Value for money:
06 October 2011
Pros: looks good, easy to do ( if cool)
Cons: too expensive, if hot it sticks tight before lining up
"Expensive, but looks good when laid carefully and could last a long time. The first lot I laid, 5 years ago was fairly easy, I laid base sheet one way and cap sheet for full roll out of 6m.in the other direction I had assistant, for much of the rolling out., and the long rolls all lined up well. During the hot week at the end of September 2011, i did another flat roof, and boy was it different. The few degrees extra temperature made it really awkward in that once the cap sheet touched.the base....it was stuck. Almost impossible to line up for full long rolls. I resorted to 2m+ lengths and overlapped. Not as satisfactory in appearance as I had hoped, but the garage roof was not viewable . Will try rolling two halves from centre next time.......or wait until its a cool day!"
"Easy-Seal is a good system and I think worth the expense even for sheds. This is the 2nd roof I have covered with it. Some tips :
- work in inches not metric, as the overlaps and gable-ends are 3", easier to remember and to do arithmentic with than "75mm"
- when measuring do not forget to add 3" for the drip edges at each gable end, and another 3" for any end-lap if the piece is not covering the full length of the roof. Sounds obvious, but easily forgotten on the first piece. Add a bit more for a margin of error (2" per gable end).
- use a bullet-tip permanent marker to mark the felt for cutting & overlaps.
- on underlay use a long thin plank 3" wide to mark the overlap along the edge of the previous strip laid, this ensures that the next sheet is prepositioned exactly parallel to the one overlapped (on cap sheet the selvedge performs this function)
- should the surplus black polyester sheet at the edges of the underlay be trimmed? I played safe and sliced this off with scissors as part of the measuring process while the felt was unrolled on the ground.
- the advantage of the Easy-Seal system is that it is fixed without any need for clout nails on the roof surface. But clouts do seem to be unavoidable to hold down the drip edges at the gutter and gable ends, especially if welting is not used (welting seems OTT on a shed roof). On a previous roof I used clouts on the underlay drip-edges and relied on the cap sheet sticking to this without clouts, but with time it came unstuck so needed to be nailed.
- nail and trim the gable ends and gutter edges on the underlay before laying the cap sheet. The nails need only be about 12" apart, whereas for the cap sheet they should be 3-4" apart. If the trimming is left to the end then you will be cutting underlay & capsheet together, much more difficult especially at the overlaps.
- there's no help in the instructions about pitched roofs (pehaps because Wickes do not want to be seen to promote a potentially unsafe procedure?). - - I used a grab-rope draped over the roof and tied to a tree overhead, which helped a lot. - - The underlay in particular is slippery : counter-intuitively I found I was less likely to slip by standing up rather than cowering on my knees. - - whether/how to reinforce the gutter edges of the 18mm substrate board? I think this is necessary, both to provide more purchase for the clouts along the edge, and to stop the [old] board from curling at the edges. I used tanalised batten about 1" square. Ideally I suppose this batten (and also the edge of the board itself) should be cut at an angle so that the drip edge is vertical, but I did not bother, leaving the drip edge angled back towards the wall, this seems ok. - - when positioning each piece of capsheet, how to stop it from slithering down over the underlay? This is a killer. Use smaller pieces to reduce this problem. - - how to fix the ridge piece? After pre-positioning I rolled half the length back as normal, but then introduced a split in the backing sheet so that just half of it peeled off down the length of the piece as I rolled it back on to the roof. The piece ends up stuck down on one side of the ridge but not the other. It can then be folded back lengthways along the ridge to peel off the remaining strip of backing paper. Watch out for the wind when folding it back over to stick down!
- primer coverage : I achieved about 4.5 sq m per litre. This is consistent with the instructions which say 4-6 sq m per litre. I used a single generous coat; I wanted to avoid a 2nd coat not only because of the extra effort, but also because of my experience on a previous roof, where the 2nd coat took hours to dry, much longer than expected. But my 1 coat was barely enough, even on new board, and even though I was slathering it on. Part of the problem may also have been that I was covering too big an area at once, so that the primer was too dry for some of the pieces of underlay. I would recommend using 2 coats, and also for big roofs tackling each leaf of the roof in 2 halves, even though this would add several days to the project.
- once started, the whole job (ie primer - underlay - cap sheet) needs to be finished as quickly as possible, ie over consecutive days. I found I needed one full day for each leaf of my pitched roof (7 x 2.5m per side) for each of underlay and cap sheet, ie 4 full days in all, almost impossible to find rain-free this year grrr. The rain forced me to break for a few weeks between underlay and capsheet, which meant that the bonding of the capsheet was impaired especially at the selvedges. Ironically the weather can also be too hot, the black felt quickly soaks up the sun and gets hot and sticky, which makes it difficult to cut and to peel off the backing paper and to walk on : I had to schedule breaks for several hours in the middle of the day when it was sunny."
35out of36found this review helpful.
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Review 23 for Easy Seal Cap Sheet Felt 6x1m
Value for money:
26 July 2013
Pros: no gas torch needed or burns fromdripping bitumen
Cons: priceyneed care when layingmust get it right fir
"After using this felt 2 yr ago for a shed I was impressed,and after all the wind,rain,ice and snow it's still perfect. Due to previous use I again opted to use this felt just this week for a 3mx3m lean to roof,on the 2nd to last run of cap sheet (second roll) I noticed after laying it there were 3 spots that didn't not adhere and also the end of the run had no adhesive on the corner measuring around 5 to 6 inch diagonally. I now have a section of felt which will more than likely fail before the rest due to lack of adhesive on the back of the felt....as user's will now,once this is stuck you cannot lift it and reapply. I felt (no pun intended) the quality was not as good as the last lot I used 2 yrs ago."
9out of13found this review helpful.
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Review 24 for Easy Seal Cap Sheet Felt 6x1m
excellent roofing felt,
Expertise: Moderate DIYer
Value for money:
19 November 2013
"This did the job of reroofing our kitchen extension very well but it is important that the temperature is neither too hot or cold as handling and cutting becomes difficult. Much simpler than applying bitumen glue and the felt separately. The edging seal is essential where there is an overlap."
8out of8found this review helpful.
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Ratings-Only Reviews for Easy Seal Cap Sheet Felt 6x1m